Summer has come, and we actively sew dresses, sundresses and tops. In products without sleeves, it is important to reliably and beautifully process open sections of the neck and armhole. And in this we will be helped by a one-piece edging.
There are many ways to process this node, I know at least six. The choice of this or that method depends on the type of product, the characteristics of the fabric and the width of the shoulder section.
Today I will show you one of my favorite ways. In it, I like the simplicity of execution and the ability to stitch the neck from the inside completely over the entire circumference, and not partially, as in other methods. This method is suitable for processing dresses with medium or wide shoulder sections. If the straps of the product are narrow, it is better to choose a different type of processing.
For this master class, the pattern of model 107 from Burda 9/2012 was used as the basis:
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In order to grind the underside of the top of the product, it is necessary to cut out the details of the shelf and back from the fabric, try on and make adjustments, if necessary.
Shoulder stitching in double bodice dress
In addition, you will need:
- lining fabric (you can use the main one);
- adhesive doublerin;
- tracing paper or any paper to translate the pattern;
- a simple pencil;
- French pattern droplet;
- threads, tailor pins, scissors for fabric and for paper, ruler.
Step 1
First you need to cut out the trim. If your dress has not undergone any changes during the fitting process, it is better to tailor it by reshooting the part from the dress pattern.
In this case, I corrected the details of the dress, so we transfer the lines of the neck of the armhole, the side lines and the center lines to the tracing paper, laying on it the finished parts from the fabric. Transfer with allowances.
Step 2
On the part of the shelf we carry marks at a distance of 4 cm from the sections of the armholes and the neck, we connect them with a smooth line using the French pattern. If you do not have such a pattern, you can use any item with smooth outlines, for example, a plate.
Step 3
Similarly, draw the bottom line on the details of the back. Now you can cut the patterns of the details of the stitching.
Important!
When cutting the stitching pattern, cut 2 mm along the lines of the armholes and neck so that when connecting with the main parts, a beautiful transitional edging is formed, and the stitching is not visible from the front side.
Step 4
Next, you need to cut out the details of the stitching on the fabric and duplicate them. When cutting the fabric, pay attention to the direction of the shared threads: the direction of the shared thread of the facing should coincide with its direction on the main parts of the shelf and back.
We duplicate the details of the facing with adhesive doubler using an iron. It is better to duplicate parts completely, along with allowances, so that the neck and armholes are not deformed during operation.
Important!
If necessary, you can duplicate a thin strip of glue sections of the neck and armholes on the details of the shelves and backs of the main fabric. My grind is processed with a fairly dense doubler, so I decided not to do this.
It is up to you to decide whether to duplicate the allowance for the details of the grind. It depends on the density of the fabric and doubler. If it is necessary to reduce the thickness along the lines of the neck and armholes, then allowances can not be duplicated. But at the same time, doubler should go on the line of the future line of connecting the details of the dress and the trim.
Please note: if you overlay finished finished parts on the shelf and back, it is clear that they do not reach the neckline and 2 mm armhole.
How to process the neck with a French edging
Step 5
On the dress, it is necessary to grind and overcast tucks, side seams and the back seam, as well as to sew a zipper. Leave the shoulder seams open.
Step 6
Put the front facing on the shelf on the front side to the front side, aligning the neckline. Chip and lay a line.
Step 7
Trim the allowance to a width of approx. 4-5 mm, if necessary, cut the allowances in steps: the allowance remains wide, which will lie on the front side, that is, the allowance for the main part, and cut off the overturn allowance to a width of approx. 3 mm.
Cut the fillets close to the line.
Step 8
Iron the oversize to grind.
Step 9
Lay the finishing line along the groove along the neck at a distance of ~ 1−2 mm from the seam, grabbing allowances. Unscrew the trim on the dress.
Step 10
Sweep out the throat and iron.
Step 11
Handle the neck of the back similarly. Pay attention to the processing of zippers: bend the stitching, not reaching the zipper ~ 4-5 mm, then bend the zipper and the allowance for the stitching, lay a line on top of this “sandwich”. Next, you need to carve out all the excess allowances and corners. Do not stitch the hem along the zipper yet.
Step 12
Stitch side seams and iron allowances. If the fabric crumbles, overcast the side seam allowances.
Step 13
To process the bottom cut of a facing: to overcast or to process with an inlay.
Clarification: You can grind the side seams of the facing and process its lower slice even before the neck processing stage. It all depends on which operation needs more freedom.
How to process a square neckline
Step 14
Place the hem on the shelf and back, front to front, aligning the armhole lines. Chip and sew a line, not reaching the shoulder section of approx. 5-7 cm.
Step 15
Unscrew the front strap on the front side and insert it into the strap of the back, the shelf to the back and the hem of the shelf to the hem of the back. Combine the seam and chop off the shoulder seam.
Step 16
Stitch shoulder seams, cut all corners and iron allowances.
Step 17
Pull the front strap through the back of the strap as far as possible.
Step 18
Chip off the hole remaining on the side of the armhole and stitch it. Cut corners of allowances.
Step 19
Unscrew the trim on the dress. Lay the finishing line along the groove along the armhole at a distance of ~ 1−2 mm from the seam, grabbing allowances. At the same time, start the seam from the place where you can get close with the clipper foot. I did it at a distance of 9 cm from the shoulder seam in front and 5.5 cm in the back.
Step 20
Sweep out and iron the armholes. Sew the stitching with manual stitches to the allowances of the side seams of the dress.
Step 21
Manually sew the trim to the zipper tape.
How to make a pocket with a trimmed barrel
The author of the master class and photo: Daria Tabatchikova
By education, Daria is a PR specialist and economist, but several years ago she devoted herself entirely to her favorite business - sewing.
She learned to sew from magazines, books and using the Internet, there are also sewing courses in the arsenal, but Daria refers herself to self-taught. She loves to study specialized sewing literature from different years and countries, and then put her knowledge into practice.
At the end of 2017, Daria became the winner of the holiday contest fromBurdaStyle.ru.
She leads her Instagram page and VKontakte group.
Material prepared by Julia Dekanova
