The product, the wrong side of which boasts neat seams and beautiful machining of allowances, will tell about the craftswoman’s love for details and small accents.
In unlined products, the oversized sleeve allowances can be processed in several ways. We will dwell on one of them in more detail.
1 way
On an overlock or zigzag stitch on a sewing machine
This is the easiest and most affordable way to handle set-up sleeve allowances. Great for products from medium-density fabrics, cotton, linen, and wool.
The width and length of the zigzag stitch in this case is determined depending on the width of the allowance and on the fabric from which the product is sewn. The same applies to overlock processing. With one exception, you choose between a three-thread or four-thread overlock seam.
2 way
Seam
Most often it is used for sewing shirts, blouses, shirt cuts and dress-shirts. Since the armhole and, accordingly, the seam allowance of the set-in sleeve, the curly line of the cut and the sewn seam will not be so easy.
Read about how to cope with this sewing task in our master classes:
How to sew a women's shirt
How to sew sewing in a man's shirt
3 way
Processing allowances of the set-in sleeve with an oblique collar
This method is an ideal solution for products made of thin fabrics, delicate silk, loose and loose fabrics.
And also for models with half-open armholes.
This is a fairly painstaking treatment, but the result is worth it.
In this master class, I will show how to process the allowance of the set-in sleeve in a dress of silk chiffon with a slanting inlay.
Step 1
Cut slanting inks 5 cm wide.
How to cut a slanting inlay from a thin fabric
Step 2
Use an iron to stabilize the inline widths.
After the WTO, the width of the inlay will change by about 1.5–2 cm, so it must be adjusted to a width of 3 cm.
Step 3
The allowances of the set-in sleeve are cut to a width of 0.5-0.7 mm.
Step 4
Bast the tape to the allowances of the set-in sleeve on the side of the product.
Step 5
Stitch the slanting inlay to the allowance on the side of the sleeve, laying a stitch 1 mm higher than the stitching of the sleeve in the armhole.
Step 6
Iron the oversize.
Step 7
Unscrew the tape up and iron it.
Step 8
First, unscrew the tape so that its slice and the slice of the sewing in allowance for the sleeve are in contact with each other.
Then surround the stock with allowance and sketch over the stitching seam.
Step 9
Stitch a slanting inlay to the edge.
Step 10
Remove the basting. Iron the machined allowance.
Done!
The author of the master class and photo: Julia Dekanova
